Geneva

climb the cathedral towers for the best rooftop panorama over the lake and Old Town, stand where Calvin preached

walk the European seat of the United Nations — Assembly Hall, the human-rights corridor — then stand under the giant three-legged Broken Chair opposite

one of Europe's most moving museums — the story of humanitarian action, told through survivors' testimony and immersive design, steps from the UN

a horology cathedral — five centuries of watches and enamels, and the Patek collection, in a hushed Plainpalais townhouse; the pilgrimage for watch lovers

a lake-view room at the Beau-Rivage or Four Seasons des Bergues, the Jet d'Eau catching the last light and the fountain floodlit after dark

a Belle-Époque CGN paddle-steamer or private launch at golden hour, then filets de perche and Chasselas by the water

hands-on with Genevan chocolatiers — the city's confectionery heritage, a tasting or a make-your-own workshop

the two Léman classics done properly — bubbling fondue moitié-moitié and lake-perch fillets with a glass of Geneva-region white on the water

the world's largest particle-physics lab on the city edge

the golden mile of Patek, Rolex, Vacheron and Cartier boutiques — and, in April, the industry's marquee salon when the whole watch world descends

a hotel spa with lake and Mont-Blanc views — pool, hammam and treatments as a restorative city-break centrepiece